Shelly Relays
Every Shelly relay we stock, sized for an Australian wall box or a switchboard rail. The model names tell you what each one does, once you know what the letters mean.
The number is the channel count
Shelly names a relay for how many circuits it switches. A Shelly 1 does one, a 2PM does two, and the Pro 3 and Pro 4PM do three and four. Two channels on one module only helps if both circuits run back to the same spot.
PM means power metering
A PM model measures the circuit it switches, in watts and accumulated energy, which means it has to sit in that circuit. The models without PM give you a potential-free dry contact instead, isolated from their own supply. You pick one or the other.
Mini, standard and Pro
Mini modules are 29 x 34 x 16 mm, for a crowded wall box. Standard modules are 37 x 42 x 16 mm. Pro models clip onto the switchboard DIN rail and add an Ethernet port. Don't pick on size alone: the 1 Mini Gen4 switches 8 A against 16 A on the full-size 1 Gen4.
L means no neutral
L in a model name means the relay runs from the active alone, with no neutral at the switch. Two models carry it, the 1L Gen3 and the 2L Gen3. Both are built for lighting circuits, and both come with the Bypass they need in the box.
Filter guide
Which protocol should I pick?
Protocols are the wireless languages smart devices use to talk to each other. Some need a hub, some run straight off your Wi-Fi. Here's what each one means for your setup.
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Zigbee
Low-power meshThe cleanest mesh for a bigger setup. Every mains-powered device repeats the signal, so coverage grows as you add more. Needs a hub like a Hue Bridge or SmartThings.
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Wi-Fi
No hub neededThe simplest way to start. Plugs into your existing Wi-Fi with no extra hardware. Best for a handful of devices; very large setups can crowd the network.
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Ethernet
Wired to your routerThe steadiest connection you can give a device. A cable means no Wi-Fi congestion and nothing to drop out, which is why hubs, panels and cameras so often offer it. The catch is physical: it has to sit within cable reach of a network port.
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Bluetooth
Direct, short-rangeGood for setup and close-range control from your phone. Range is short with no remote access on its own, so it's often paired with a hub or bridge.
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Filter guide
Which module size do I need?
Smart relays come in two builds: in-wall modules that hide behind a switch or power point, and DIN-rail modules that clip into your switchboard. Size decides where it fits.
In-wall
In-wall modules sit inside the wall cavity behind an existing switch or power point. The size decides whether one fits a mounting box that is already crowded with wiring.
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Standard
About 37 x 42 mmThe full-size in-wall module. Fits most Australian wall boxes and mounting brackets, and takes the most common wiring layouts without fuss.
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Mini
About 29 x 34 mmA shrunk version of the same module. Same job, smaller case, so it fits behind a mech in a wall box that is already tight for room.
DIN rail
DIN-rail modules clip onto the standard rail in your switchboard, installed by an electrician. Width is counted in rail slots of 18 mm, the same measure as circuit breakers.
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1 module
One rail slot, 19 mmTakes a single slot on the switchboard rail, the same width as a standard circuit breaker. Shelly Pro 1, 2, 1PM and 2PM are this size.
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3 modules
Three rail slots, 53 mmTakes three slots on the switchboard rail. The bigger cases, like Shelly Pro 3 and Pro 4PM, use the room for more channels and heavier terminals.
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Filter guide
What's a channel?
One channel switches one circuit. A 2-channel relay behind a single plate can run two lights on their own schedules, or a light and an exhaust fan, without needing a second device.
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One channel
Switches one circuitSwitches one thing on its own: a light, a fan, an exhaust.
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Two channels
Switches two circuitsTwo circuits controlled separately, like both halves of a double switch.
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Three channels
Switches three circuitsThree circuits from one module, each on its own control.
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Four channels
Switches four circuitsFour circuits from one module, each on its own control.
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Filter guide
Where does a relay mount?
A relay hides out of sight and makes an ordinary circuit smart. All three options are wired in by an electrician; the difference is where the relay lives.
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In-wall
Behind the switchFits in the wall cavity behind an existing switch or power point. The switch on the wall stays and still works; the relay sits behind it and makes the circuit smart.
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DIN rail
In the switchboardClips onto the standard rail in your switchboard, next to the circuit breakers. Keeps everything in one serviceable spot, which suits whole-home installs and bigger jobs.
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Filter guide
What does energy monitoring do?
The relay measures how much power the circuit is drawing and reports it in the app, so you can see what a heater or pool pump actually costs to run and build automations around usage. Models without it still switch as normal; they just don't measure.
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Energy monitoring
Measures power useMeasures the power the connected circuit is using, so you can see consumption per device in the app. These are the models with PM in the name.
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Switching only
No power measurementTurns the circuit on and off without measuring power use. Choose this where you only need control, not consumption data.
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More about Shelly relays
Choosing a Shelly relay.
Start with what you are switching
Match the model's rated current to the load before anything else. The full-size Gen4 relays switch 16 A at 240 V and the Mini versions switch 8 A. Motors, pumps and fans are inductive loads and want an RC snubber fitted across the load, which is worth raising with your electrician when you book the job rather than after.
Metering or isolation, not both
If you want to know what a circuit costs to run, buy the PM version. If you want to trigger something that supplies its own voltage, a garage door controller, a boiler input, an irrigation valve, buy the plain model for its dry contact. Working out which one you needed after the electrician has gone is an expensive way to learn the difference.
Pro is a form factor, not a tier
The Pro models are the DIN-rail line: wider, built for the switchboard, with an Ethernet port as well as Wi-Fi. They run Shelly's Gen2 firmware, so they have no Matter and no Zigbee. A Gen4 module in the wall box is the newer device. Buy Pro because the job is in the switchboard, not because it reads like the upgrade.
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
The PM is power metering, and it changes more than the reporting. A 1PM measures the load it switches, so it has to sit in that circuit. A plain Shelly 1 gives you a potential-free dry contact instead, isolated from its own supply, so it can switch a circuit at a completely different voltage.
The Shelly 1L and 2L are built for it, and both come with the Bypass they need. The Bypass has to go next to the light rather than next to the relay, which is a second spot your electrician has to reach. The no-neutral channel caps at 200 W. On the 2L only the first channel carries that limit; the second runs to 700 W.
Yes, in detached mode. The switch stops operating its own circuit and becomes a free input your automations can read, so a flick of the old switch can run a scene instead. The other input modes keep it wired to the light in the usual way, as a toggle, a momentary button or an edge switch.
Gen4 for anything new. It carries Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and Zigbee 3.0 with Matter support, and it wires up the same as every generation before it. The one exception is the no-neutral job, where the 1L and 2L are Gen3 and there is no Gen4 equivalent.
Because that is normal. A relay switching a load sheds heat, and in a sealed wall box it has nowhere to go. Shelly rates these for an ambient working temperature up to 40 degrees and builds overheating protection into the device. Warm in the wall box is designed behaviour. One that is cutting out is not, and that is worth a call.