Shelly Dimmers
Every Shelly dimmer we stock. They are trailing edge modules that hide behind your existing switch or sit on the switchboard rail, and each channel caps at 200 W.
Shelly doesn't make a wall dimmer
There is no Shelly plate to fit. The in-wall models go in the recess behind the switch you already have, and the Pro models go on the DIN rail in the switchboard. Whatever is on the wall now stays there and keeps working.
The whole range is trailing edge
Every Shelly dimmer dims on the trailing edge, which is the LED-friendly half of the choice. There is no leading-edge model, so a circuit that needs one is not a Shelly job. Each unit runs an automatic calibration on first power-up and after any change of load.
200 W is the ceiling
Every model caps at 200 W of output: the in-wall Gen3 and Gen4 and both Pro Dimmers alike. The Pro Dimmer 2PM gets 200 W on each of its two channels rather than 200 W shared. On LED that is plenty for most rooms, but count a long downlight run before you order.
No neutral, with conditions
The in-wall Dimmer Gen3 and Gen4 both run without a neutral at the switch. Under 20 W of load they need a Bypass fitted at the light, and with no neutral they cannot measure power and their over-current protections may not behave as intended. The Pro models need a neutral.
Filter guide
Which protocol should I pick?
Protocols are the wireless languages smart devices use to talk to each other. Some need a hub, some run straight off your Wi-Fi. Here's what each one means for your setup.
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Zigbee
Low-power meshThe cleanest mesh for a bigger setup. Every mains-powered device repeats the signal, so coverage grows as you add more. Needs a hub like a Hue Bridge or SmartThings.
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Wi-Fi
No hub neededThe simplest way to start. Plugs into your existing Wi-Fi with no extra hardware. Best for a handful of devices; very large setups can crowd the network.
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Ethernet
Wired to your routerThe steadiest connection you can give a device. A cable means no Wi-Fi congestion and nothing to drop out, which is why hubs, panels and cameras so often offer it. The catch is physical: it has to sit within cable reach of a network port.
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Bluetooth
Direct, short-rangeGood for setup and close-range control from your phone. Range is short with no remote access on its own, so it's often paired with a hub or bridge.
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More about Shelly dimmers
Choosing a Shelly dimmer.
In the wall or on the rail
That choice picks the model, not the price. The Dimmer Gen4 is 38.5 x 43.5 x 17 mm and goes in the recess behind an existing switch. The Pro Dimmers are DIN-rail units for the switchboard, they need a neutral, and they add an Ethernet port. The Pro line runs Shelly's Gen2 firmware, so it has no Matter and no Zigbee.
Gen4 is the one to buy
The Dimmer Gen4 carries Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and Zigbee 3.0, it is Matter compatible, and it will act as a Zigbee range extender for other devices on the way past. The Dimmer Gen3 is the same 200 W trailing-edge module a generation back. Buy the Gen4 unless the saving matters more than the radios.
Check the low end, not just the high end
Two or three LED downlights can land under 20 W between them. Running without a neutral, that is when the Bypass goes in, at the light rather than at the dimmer, and it is a separate part your electrician wants in hand on the day rather than after. It also settles a lamp that glows faintly when it should be off.
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
No, and you don't want to. The Dimmer 2 is a Gen1 device on Shelly's old firmware and separate API, and it has been superseded twice. The Dimmer Gen3 replaced it and the Dimmer Gen4 replaced that. Both are the same 200 W trailing-edge job in a smaller module, on the current app and the current API.
Only the Pro Dimmer 2PM. It is a DIN-rail unit with two independent channels, each dimming its own circuit at up to 200 W. The in-wall Dimmer Gen3 and Gen4 are single channel, so two circuits means two modules, and each one has to reach the wiring for the circuit it controls.
Usually because the dimmer has not calibrated to the load. Shelly dimmers run an automatic calibration on first power-up, and it has to be run again after any change to the lights on the circuit. Swapping globes counts. If it still flickers at the bottom after a recalibration, the load is probably under the minimum.
Not with the models we stock. These dim the mains supply to the light, which suits dimmable LED globes and most integrated fittings. A fitting with a 0-10V or DALI driver expects a control signal instead. Shelly makes dimmers for both, and we don't range them yet, so ask us before you order.