LED strip lights
LED strip lights turn a cove, shelf or benchtop into a clean line of light. Synced stocks strips you can plan a room around: the right brightness, colour and control for where the strip is going.
SMD, COB and RGBIC
SMD strips space individual diodes along the tape and suit runs behind a diffuser. COB strips pack the LEDs into one continuous line with no visible dots, better where the strip is on show. RGBIC adds per-segment colour, so a single strip can run several colours at once.
Brightness and colour
Brightness comes from LED density, the number of LEDs per metre. Choose tunable white for everyday light, or RGB and RGBIC if you want colour and effects.
Power and length
Most strips run on 12V or 24V through a driver, or off USB for short desk and TV runs. They cut to length at marked points and join with clips or solder, so you trim a roll to fit the wall rather than the other way around.
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More about LED strips
Choosing LED strips
Pick COB for a smooth line, SMD to save
If the strip sits in view along a benchtop edge or open shelf, COB gives you a solid line of light with no dots. If it hides behind a diffuser or up in a cove, SMD does the same job for less. Want colour or per-segment effects behind the TV or in a kid's room? Choose RGBIC over plain RGB.
Match the IP rating to the spot
Indoor, dry runs need no weatherproofing, so an IP20 strip is fine behind a TV or along a shelf. For a bathroom, eave or anywhere it cops a splash, step up to IP65. Under a pergola or out in the garden where it sits in the weather, IP67 or higher earns its keep.
Sort the power and how you'll switch it
Short USB or plug-in strips you can fit yourself. Long hardwired runs need a 12V or 24V driver sized to the length, and anything joined to the mains needs a licensed electrician. For control, pick a Wi-Fi or Matter strip if you want app scenes, schedules and voice; a plug-in strip with a remote is plenty for set-and-forget colour.
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
Only if you wire them into the mains. Plug-in, USB and battery strips you can fit yourself, no licence needed. A hardwired run that joins your home's 240V supply, or sits behind a wall, has to be done by a licensed electrician under Australian wiring rules. If in doubt, start with a plug-in strip.
Clean and dry the surface first, then press the strip's 3M adhesive backing firmly along its full length. On rough, dusty or hot surfaces the glue lets go over time, so add mounting clips or run the strip inside an aluminium channel. The channel also hides the diodes and protects the strip.
Not much. A typical 5-metre strip draws about 20 to 40 watts at full brightness, close to a single old halogen downlight, and less as you dim it. Running cost tracks length and brightness, not the colour you choose. Strips are among the cheaper lights in the house to leave on.
The main one is quality spread: cheap strips fade, shift colour or fail at the joins within a year. The adhesive can also lift on hot or rough surfaces, and very long runs dim toward the far end without enough power. Buy a known brand, mount it well and size the driver, and you sidestep all three.
Yes. Everything in our lighting range works with Apple Home, Google Home, Alexa and SmartThings. Wi-Fi for the simplest setup, Zigbee or Thread for the cleanest mesh, Matter for the future-proof pick.
It depends on the protocol. Wi-Fi bulbs connect directly to your router. Zigbee and Thread devices need a compatible hub or border router (like a Hue Bridge or a Matter-capable speaker) for the most reliable mesh.