Downlights
Smart downlights that sit flush in your ceiling like any standard fitting: dim, schedule and shift from warm white to full colour over Wi-Fi, Zigbee or Matter.
Cut-out size
Downlights drop into a round hole cut in your ceiling. Most Australian homes use a 90mm cut-out, so measure yours before you buy. Many models clip into an existing hole, which makes swapping old halogen fittings straightforward.
Tuneable white and colour
Tuneable white shifts from warm (2700K) to cool (5000K and up) to suit the time of day. RGBW models add full colour for scenes and entertainment.
How they connect
Wi-Fi downlights talk straight to your router. Zigbee and Matter downlights join a hub or border router instead, forming a low-power mesh built for lots of always-on lights.
IC rating
An IC-rated downlight can sit in contact with ceiling insulation, which most newer installations now require.
2 products
No products match those filters.
Choosing smart downlights
Start with the cut-out size
Before you fall for a finish, measure the hole your current downlights sit in and match that diameter. A light even a few millimetres out won't sit flush. With the size sorted, the choice is the beam: fixed downlights throw an even wash across the ceiling, while gimbal models tilt so you can aim light at a wall, bench or artwork.
Decide how much colour you need
If you mainly want better, more flexible light, tuneable white covers it: warm for evenings, cool white for the kitchen or a home office. Choose RGBW only if you want full colour for scenes or entertainment, and check the model keeps a dedicated white channel. Colour-only downlights render everyday white poorly.
Match the connection to your setup
For a handful of lights, Wi-Fi is the easy answer: nothing extra to buy, set up in the app and you're done. Once you're past a few, or you already run a hub, Zigbee or Matter give you faster response and local control that survives an internet outage. Both answer to Google Home and Amazon Alexa for voice.
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
Usually, yes, as long as the new light matches your existing cut-out. The deciding factor is how the old fitting connects. Downlights on a plug base unclip and swap as a DIY job, while hardwired fittings should be changed by a licensed electrician. If you're not sure which you have, it's a quick job for a sparky to check.
As a rule of thumb, space downlights about 1.2 to 1.5 times your ceiling height apart, and keep them roughly 600mm off the walls. For a standard 2.4m ceiling, that's a light every 1.2 to 1.5 metres. Even spacing matters more than the raw count: it's what stops patchy bright spots and shadows.
Barely. The LED draws the same 8 to 10W as a normal downlight, and the Wi-Fi or Zigbee radio that makes it smart adds only a fraction of a watt on standby. Across a whole house that's a few dollars a year. The real difference runs the other way: dimming and schedules keep lights off or low when no one needs them.
A few worth knowing. They cost more up front than plain LED downlights, and a Wi-Fi-only setup leans on your home network, so a flaky router shows up as laggy lights. The fix is mostly in what you buy: pick Zigbee or Matter for reliability, keep a normal wall switch in the loop so anyone can use the light, and avoid no-name brands that lose app support.
Yes. Everything in our lighting range works with Apple Home, Google Home, Alexa and SmartThings. Wi-Fi for the simplest setup, Zigbee or Thread for the cleanest mesh, Matter for the future-proof pick.
It depends on the protocol. Wi-Fi bulbs connect directly to your router. Zigbee and Thread devices need a compatible hub or border router (like a Hue Bridge or a Matter-capable speaker) for the most reliable mesh.