Smart dimmer switches
Wall dimmers that set brightness by app, voice or the switch itself, and hold a scene once you have it right. The catch is compatibility, so check the dimming type and your lights before you buy.
Trailing vs leading edge
Leading edge suits older halogen and incandescent loads; trailing edge is the smoother, quieter choice for modern LEDs. Most smart dimmers here are trailing edge, and many auto-detect the load.
Minimum and maximum load
Every dimmer lists a wattage range. Drop below the minimum, common with one or two LED globes, and lights can flicker or refuse to turn off fully.
Control and protocols
Dim over Wi-Fi, Zigbee or Matter, by app, voice or the physical paddle. Matter and Zigbee run locally through a hub; Wi-Fi models connect direct.
Wiring
A dimmer replaces the existing mech in the wall plate. Wiring, including whether a neutral is needed, sits with our light switches.
Shop by type
Shop by type
How these types differ
The difference is where the dimmer lives, and whether the wiring needs an electrician.
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Remotes & dials
No wiringBattery-powered, and sticks or sits wherever you want it: on the wall, on a side table, in a drawer. A dial turns brightness up and down; a button remote steps through levels and scenes. No wiring and no electrician, so it's the easiest way in.
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In-wall modules
ElectricianFits behind your existing switch or in the switchboard, so the wall plate you already have keeps working while the dimming happens out of sight. The tidier retrofit when you don't want to change the look of the switch. Needs an electrician.
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What is a smart dimmer switch?
Brightness you can set from an app, not just at the wall.
A smart dimmer switch lets you set the brightness of a light from an app, with your voice or on a schedule, as well as by hand at the wall. You can save a brightness you like as a scene, then bring it back with a tap or have it come on by itself at certain times of the day.
We stock two kinds of dimmer. A dimmer switch changes the power going to a light, so it works with the dimmable downlights and globes you already have. It sits behind your existing light switch or on the DIN rail in your switchboard, and the switch on the wall still works by hand. A wireless dimmer changes the brightness of a smart light you already have, like Hue or WiZ. It's a battery remote, so there's nothing to wire in. You can't use a dimmer switch with a smart light, though. A smart light needs full power all the time, and cutting it makes the light flicker or drop off the app.
If your lights are ordinary dimmable LEDs, you want an LED dimmer switch. Before you buy, check three things: dimmable globes, enough load on the circuit and a neutral wire. We cover all three further down.
Behind the switch, in the switchboard or on the wall?
There are three ways to dim a light. A dimmer module goes behind your light switch, a Pro dimmer goes in the switchboard, and a wireless remote sits on the wall and dims smart bulbs without touching the wiring.
Goes in the wall behind the light switch you already have and dims up to 150 W of LED on one circuit. It works with or without a neutral wire. The Gen4 can run on Matter or Zigbee, one at a time, while the Gen3 uses Wi-Fi and Bluetooth only. If you're adding dimming to an existing home, start here.
Clips onto the rail in your switchboard and needs a neutral wire. The 1PM dims one circuit at up to 200 W, and the 2PM dims two circuits at up to 200 W each. Both show how much power each circuit uses. Best for a new build or a rewire, when your electrician is already working in the switchboard.
Runs on a battery, so there's no wiring and no electrician. The Hue Dimmer Switch and Tap Dial use a coin cell and control Hue lights. The WiZ Tap Dial charges over USB-C and controls WiZ lights only. Each works with its own brand of smart bulb, not with ordinary globes.
Choosing a dimmer switch for LED lights
Before you buy a dimmer, there are three things you should check. You can skip them if you're using a Hue or WiZ wireless remote with smart bulbs you already have.
A non-dimmable LED will buzz or flicker on any dimmer, so check the box or the globe itself. Every mains dimmer we stock is a trailing edge dimmer, the type LED needs, so that part is covered.
LEDs draw very little power, and two or three downlights can fall under what a dimmer needs to work properly. On an in-wall Shelly without a neutral, lights under 20 W need a Bypass. It's fitted at the light, not at the switch, so have it on hand when your electrician comes.
The in-wall modules work with or without a neutral, which suits older Australian homes. The Pro dimmers in the switchboard need one.
Frequently asked questions
We wire this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team