Plus Uni
The Shelly for everything that isn't mains. It runs on 12 or 24 volts, switches two low-voltage contacts, and reads inputs, pulses and temperature probes. Gate controllers, doorbells and boiler inputs, rather than lights.
Everything you need to know
The sections below cover what this module does, the jobs people put it on, the full specifications, and how warranty and returns work. If something's still unanswered, the questions at the bottom cover the common ones.
Product features
What this module does
Every other Shelly needs mains power to run. The Plus Uni doesn't: it takes 8 to 24 volts AC, 9 to 28 volts DC, or a 5 volt supply, which means it can go where the mains doesn't. It's a complete device with its own Wi-Fi, not an accessory, and it does two jobs at once. Two potential-free contacts let it close a circuit on something else, rated to 30 V and 300 mA, which is a trigger rather than a power switch. Alongside them, two digital inputs, an analog input, a pulse counter and a 1-Wire line let it read what that equipment is doing. That combination is the point. A gate motor controller, a doorbell, a boiler or an alarm panel already has a low-voltage control input and a low-voltage supply sitting next to it. The Uni taps both. If what you want to switch is a light or a powerpoint, that's mains, and you want a Shelly relay instead.
Inputs, pulses and probes
Alongside the outputs it has two digital inputs, an analog input and a pulse counter that reads up to 1 kHz, so it can watch a dry contact, a 0 to 10 V signal, or count pulses from a meter. It also has a 1-Wire data line for up to five DS18B20 temperature probes, or a single DHT22 for temperature and humidity, with no add-on needed.
Automations that don't need the internet
Schedules, timers and scenes run on the relay itself, not on a server overseas. Set lights for sunset, a towel rail for weekday mornings, or a fan to run down after the bathroom light goes off, and it all keeps working through an internet outage. There's no subscription, and the embedded web interface gives you full control from a browser on your own network.
How Shelly works
A Shelly is a small module that makes wiring you already have controllable. It joins your Wi-Fi directly, holds its schedules and scenes on the device itself, and keeps running them if your internet drops. Nothing you set up depends on Shelly's servers being reachable.
The brain is the device
Shelly does the thinking locally, not in a data centre. Schedules, scenes and logic are stored on the unit and run there, so the lights still come on at dusk when the internet is out.
No hub, no bridge
There is nothing to buy before the first one works. Where a Philips Hue setup is built around a Bridge that every light talks through, a Shelly joins your router directly and answers your phone from there.
The app is optional
Every Shelly serves its own web interface, so you can set it up and run it from a browser on your own network, with no account. The Shelly Smart Control app and Shelly Cloud are free and add remote access and voice control, but nothing needs them.
What Gen1 to Gen4 means
Shelly has run through four hardware generations, and the same product name can exist in more than one of them. Later generations are faster and carry more radios than the ones before, which is why the generation is part of the name. The specifications on each page tell you which one you are looking at.
It goes behind what you already have Start here
Shelly retrofits. The module fits behind the switch, socket or appliance that is already there, so your switch plates and fittings stay as they are and the original switch keeps working for anyone who just wants to flick it. Anything wired into a mains circuit is a job for a licensed electrician.
Open by design Then run it your way
Shelly publishes its local API and does not put it behind a developer account. Devices answer HTTP and MQTT on your own network and can run small scripts on themselves. That is why Shelly is the default choice for people building on Home Assistant, which ships an official Shelly integration.
Start with one and add more whenever you like. There is no hub to outgrow, and each Shelly works on its own whether you ever add another or not.
Works with
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Pairs with Amazon Alexa
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Pairs with Google Home
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Pairs with Home Assistant
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Pairs with SmartThings
Joins your home network; control from the app, no hub or bridge needed.
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Wi-Fi
Used once, to get it onto your Wi-Fi.
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Bluetooth
Works offline
Runs on your home network. Only remote access needs the internet.
Specifications & Installation
Setup · 2:22
How to install it
Shelly's own step-by-step install, from wiring the low-voltage inputs through to first power-up.
Watch setup videoNo specifications match.
- Type
- Module
- Form
- Inline
- Power
- Hardwired
- Supply voltage
- 9–28 V
- Standby power
- 1 W
- Input type
- Low-voltage DC
- Local control
- Yes
- Standard
- 802.11 b/g/n
- Range (indoors)
- 30 metres
- Version
- 4.2
- Range (indoors)
- 10 metres
- Operating temperature
- -20–40 °C
- Operating humidity
- 30–70 % RH
- PCB size (LxWxH)
- 40x21x7 mm / 1.57x0.83x0.28 in
- Weight
- 8.5 g / 0.3 oz (with the cables)
- Digital inputs resistance
- 50 kΩ
- Digital inputs triggering voltage
- 1.5 V (active low level)
- Max switching voltage
- 30 V
- Max switching current
- 300 mA
- Voltmeter
- 0-15 VDC / 0-30 VDC (Two-range)
- Pulse counter input triggering voltage
- 1.5 V (active low level)
- Pulse counter max frequency
- 1 kHz
- External sensors supported
- Single DHT22 or up to five DS18B20
- RF band
- 2400 - 2495 MHz
- Max. RF power
- <20 dBm
- CPU
- ESP32-U4WDH
- Flash
- 4 MB
- Schedules
- 20
- Webhooks (URL actions)
- 20 with 5 URLs per hook
- Scripting
- Yes
- MQTT
- Yes
- CoAP
- No
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
No. The outputs are 30 V, 300 mA potential-free contacts, meant for triggering low-voltage equipment. For mains, use a Shelly relay.
8 to 24 V AC, 9 to 28 V DC, or a stabilised 5 V DC supply. It doesn't run on 240 V mains.
Yes. Up to five DS18B20 probes or one DHT22 straight onto the 1-Wire line, with no add-on needed.
No, and there's no Matter on this model. Shelly lists Google, Samsung SmartThings and Alexa. It has a local API, so Home Assistant users can wire it in.
The Uni runs on low voltage, so it isn't mains work in itself. It's usually installed alongside mains-powered equipment though, and anything on the mains side must be done by a licensed electrician.