On this page
- Key takeaways
- The specification, and what it means in practice
- It has no radios. That is the thing to understand first
- Ethernet only, and it needs the internet to finish setting up
- Storage and memory are fixed
- Power over Ethernet
- Matter, and what it actually gives you
- Setting it up
- What discovery finds, and what it does not
- When you will outgrow it
- Who it suits
- Frequently asked questions
Explainer Ecosystems
Home Assistant Green: what it is and how to set it up
Home Assistant Green arrives with the software already installed, so setup takes minutes. What the specs actually mean, the radios it does not have, and where first-time setups go wrong.
Home Assistant Green is the easiest way to start running Home Assistant. It is a small fanless box, designed by Nabu Casa and engineered by Seeed Studio, that arrives with Home Assistant OS already installed. You connect it to your router, plug in the power, and finish the setup in a browser. There is no imaging an SD card, no choosing an install method, no assembly.
Three things get conflated constantly, so it is worth separating them once. Home Assistant is free, open-source software. Green is a piece of hardware with that software preinstalled. Home Assistant Cloud is a separate paid subscription you do not need in order to use either. Get those three straight and most of the confusion around this product disappears.
The specification, and what it means in practice
| Spec | Green | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Processor | Rockchip RK3566, quad-core Cortex-A55 at 1.8 GHz | Ample for lights, sensors and automations; not for camera object detection |
| Memory | 4 GB LPDDR4X | Fixed for the life of the box, with no slot to add more |
| Storage | 32 GB eMMC | No M.2 slot and nothing to swap. The usual constraint people hit |
| Network | 1 x Gigabit Ethernet | No Wi-Fi hardware at all |
| USB | 2 x USB 2.0 Type-A, 5 V up to 2 A combined | Two ports for radio adapters, so a powered hub if you want more |
| Radios | None | No Zigbee, Thread, Z-Wave, Wi-Fi or Bluetooth |
| Power | 12 V DC 1 A, 5.5 x 2.1 mm barrel | Worth noting if you ever need a replacement supply |
| Draw | About 1.7 W idle, about 3 W under load | Cheap to leave running around the clock |
| Cooling | Passive heatsink, fanless | Silent, so it can live in a living room |
| Size and weight | 112 x 112 x 32 mm, 340 g | Small enough to sit behind the router |
| Other ports | HDMI, microSD | HDMI is for diagnostics, microSD is for recovery. Neither is for daily use |
| Conditions | 0 to 40 C, non-condensing, indoor only | Not a garage or roof-space device in an Australian summer |
In the box you get the hub, a Gigabit Ethernet cable, a 12 V DC 1 A power supply and a quick start guide that carries the warranty information. One thing that is not included and is easy to miss: the real-time clock battery. Green takes an optional CR2032, and it does not ship with one. It runs perfectly well without it, but fitting one means the clock survives a power cut.
It has no radios. That is the thing to understand first
Green has no wireless radios of any kind. No Zigbee, no Thread, no Z-Wave, and no Wi-Fi or Bluetooth either. This is the single most common misunderstanding about the product, and it is the one that ends in a return, because "everything you need in one box" reads as "it will talk to my sensors". It will not, until you add the radio yourself. Which adapter you need is its own decision, covered in our guide to choosing a radio adapter, but the short version is one adapter per protocol.
| What you want to control | What Green needs |
|---|---|
| Wi-Fi devices, and Matter over Wi-Fi | Nothing. They work over your existing network |
| Zigbee devices | A Connect ZBT-2 or another Zigbee coordinator on USB |
| Thread and Matter over Thread | A Thread border router. A ZBT-2 on Thread firmware, or an Apple or Google device you already own |
| Z-Wave devices | A Connect ZWA-2 or another Z-Wave adapter, plus the Z-Wave JS app |
| Bluetooth devices | A USB Bluetooth adapter, or an ESP32 running ESPHome as a proxy |
Ethernet only, and it needs the internet to finish setting up
There is one Gigabit Ethernet port and no Wi-Fi hardware, so Green has to reach your router or switch by cable. A USB Wi-Fi dongle is not the intended path, and the sensible advice is to leave the thing that runs your house on a wired connection anyway.
The part that catches people is the second requirement. Green needs working internet access the first time it starts, not just a local network, because it fetches updates and checks versions as part of onboarding. If your network blocks NTP, or blocks version.home-assistant.io, github.com or ghcr.io, setup stalls in a way that reads exactly like a dead unit. It is worth knowing that before you conclude the hardware is faulty.
Storage and memory are fixed
The 32 GB of eMMC is part of the board and there is no M.2 slot, so there is nothing to upgrade or swap. The microSD slot is not the escape hatch it looks like: it exists for recovery and re-imaging, not for storage or booting. Memory is fixed at 4 GB in the same way.
If you do run short, the supported route on Home Assistant OS is to attach an external data disk, a USB SSD or hard drive, and move the data onto it. Green keeps booting from its internal eMMC either way, and the external disk has to be larger than the internal one. Two practical notes: on a Green that disk hangs off USB 2.0, which caps throughput, and a USB SSD can draw real power from a shared 2 A budget across both ports, so a powered hub is worth considering.
Before you buy a disk, though, check what is actually filling the storage. Our advice is to look at the recorder database first: Home Assistant records every state change by default, and the settings to purge it, repack it, exclude noisy entities and shorten how many days you keep are all there. Most "my Green is running out of space" and "my Green feels slow" complaints turn out to be a multi-gigabyte history, and that costs nothing to fix.
Power over Ethernet
Green has no PoE. Its only power input is the 12 V DC barrel jack. Home Assistant Yellow was the model with native PoE, and it is now out of production. If you want Green running off a PoE switch, the way to do it is an external PoE splitter that outputs 12 V DC into a 5.5 by 2.1 mm barrel plug, and splitters are sold specifically for this. Nabu Casa has also said there is no PoE version of the ZBT-2 planned, so do not wait for one.
Matter, and what it actually gives you
Home Assistant is a Matter controller, which means it can commission and control Matter devices directly. On a Green, Matter devices on Wi-Fi or Ethernet need no extra radio: you install the Matter Server app and go. Matter over Thread is different, because Thread needs a border router in the house, and Green cannot be one without a Thread-flashed adapter attached.
Two limits worth knowing. Home Assistant is a controller, not a bridge, so it cannot turn the devices already inside it into Matter devices for Apple Home or Google Home. It can share a Matter device it commissioned itself with another platform, which is a different thing. And Matter only ever exposes a device's standardised features, so where a brand has a proper local integration in Home Assistant, that integration will usually give you more than Matter does.
Setting it up
You need an Ethernet connection to your network with working internet access, a power point, and a phone or computer with a browser. The hardware part genuinely does take minutes.
- Connect it to your network
Run the supplied Ethernet cable from Green to your router or switch. There is no Wi-Fi option, so this cable is not optional.
- Plug in the power
Use the supplied 12 V DC 1 A supply. Give it a couple of minutes on first boot: it is starting Home Assistant OS for the first time and doing more work than a normal start-up.
- Open it in a browser
Go to http://homeassistant.local:8123 on a device on the same network, or use the Home Assistant companion app, which will offer you the box it has found. If the address does not resolve, skip to the troubleshooting note below rather than assuming the unit is dead.
- Create your account
You are creating a local account on your own hardware, not signing up to a service. Use a password manager, because there is no cloud reset to fall back on.
- Let it finish and set your location
Home Assistant will fetch updates and ask for your location, which it uses for sunrise and sunset automations and, on the Z-Wave side later, for setting the right radio region.
- Add the radio adapter, if you have one
Plug your Zigbee or Z-Wave adapter into a USB port now, ideally on a short extension cable rather than flush against the box. Home Assistant will offer to set it up.
What discovery finds, and what it does not
This is where expectations and reality part company, so here it is plainly. Home Assistant discovers devices it can reach over your network. That is televisions, some appliances, printers, media players, anything speaking a protocol it recognises on the LAN. It does not discover anything on a radio it does not have. Your Zigbee sensors, your Z-Wave lock and your Bluetooth thermometer will be invisible until the matching adapter is plugged in and set up.
Beyond that, some brands need their integration added and an account signed into, and a few need a community integration installed through HACS. Those sit outside Home Assistant core and are maintained by their own authors rather than by the project, which is worth knowing before you build something important on one. The hardware is plug-and-play. Building out a house full of devices and automations is a project, and it rewards reading the documentation rather than expecting a one-tap setup.
Worth setting expectations on support too. Home Assistant is an open-source project, and the help it offers is community help: a forum, Discord and Reddit, with no phone line and no service commitment. Nabu Casa does run a knowledge base and a support form for its own hardware and for Cloud.
When you will outgrow it
Green's ceiling is set by four things that cannot change: the quad-core Cortex-A55, 4 GB of RAM, 32 GB of soldered storage, and USB 2.0 for anything you attach. For a normal mix of lights, sensors, switches and automations, none of those is a problem, and plenty of people never move past it.
Four workloads do push past it. Camera object detection, which is processor-hungry and writes constantly. Running a stack of other self-hosted services alongside Home Assistant. Fully local speech-to-text, where the project's own guidance is that Whisper wants at least an Intel N100-class processor, which Green is not, so on a Green you are steered to the lighter Speech-to-Phrase model and its fixed set of home-control phrases. And very large histories, with long retention and a lot of high-frequency sensors.
The symptoms that genuinely mean you have outgrown it are sustained high processor and memory use during ordinary operation, and storage warnings that persist after you have already trimmed the database. If the database is untrimmed, fix that first. If you know from the outset that cameras or local voice are the plan, start with different hardware instead. Migrating later is a backup and a restore rather than a disaster, but it is still an afternoon you did not need to spend.
Who it suits
Buy a Green if you want a dedicated, silent, low-power appliance for Home Assistant and you would rather not assemble or tune anything. Add a ZBT-2 with it if you own or intend to own Zigbee devices, which most people do. Look at a mini PC instead if cameras, local voice or a pile of other services are part of the plan, because those are the workloads Green was not built for and the ones you cannot fix later with an upgrade.
Frequently asked questions
Does Home Assistant Green have Zigbee?
No. Green has no Zigbee radio, and no Thread, Z-Wave, Wi-Fi or Bluetooth radio either. To use Zigbee devices you add a Zigbee coordinator on USB, and the one Home Assistant pairs with Green is the Connect ZBT-2. The same adapter can do Thread instead, but not at the same time as Zigbee.
Does Home Assistant Green support Matter?
Yes, with a distinction that matters. Home Assistant is a Matter controller, and on a Green, Matter devices on Wi-Fi or Ethernet work with no extra hardware once the Matter Server app is installed. Matter over Thread is different: Thread needs a border router in your home, and Green cannot be one unless you attach an adapter running Thread firmware. Home Assistant is also not a Matter bridge, so it cannot re-expose the devices already inside it to Apple Home or Google Home over Matter.
Does Home Assistant Green have Wi-Fi?
No. There is a single Gigabit Ethernet port and no Wi-Fi hardware at all, so Green has to be cabled to your router or switch. A USB Wi-Fi adapter is not the intended path, and a wired connection is the right call for the device running your automations regardless.
Does Home Assistant Green need an SD card?
No. Green has 32 GB of eMMC storage on board and boots from it, which is one of its real advantages over a Raspberry Pi running from a microSD card. There is a microSD slot, but it exists for recovery and re-imaging only, not for storage or for booting, so you do not need to buy a card to use the product.
Can you wall mount a Home Assistant Green?
Not with an official bracket. No mounting hardware is included in the box and Nabu Casa publishes no mounting provision for it, so there are no screw points or VESA holes to work from. At 112 by 112 by 32 mm and 340 g it is small and light enough to sit on a shelf or behind the router, which is how it is designed to be used. Bear in mind it cools passively, so if you do improvise something, do not box in the heatsink.
Can you power a Home Assistant Green over Ethernet?
Not directly. Green has no PoE support, and its only power input is a 12 V DC 1 A barrel jack, 5.5 by 2.1 mm. You can still run it from a PoE switch by putting a PoE splitter in between, one that outputs 12 V DC to that barrel size, and splitters are sold for exactly this. Home Assistant Yellow was the model with native PoE, and it is out of production.
Why does Home Assistant Green cost more here than the US price?
The recommended price is US$199, and Australian retail has generally sat between about $270 and $280. The gap is the ordinary one: freight, GST, and the fact that Australian pricing is set by the distributor rather than by Nabu Casa. Worth knowing where the money goes, though. Nabu Casa is a commercial partner of the Open Home Foundation, the non-profit that owns Home Assistant, and contributes the majority of its profits to it, so the hardware margin pays for the software you are not being charged for.
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