Shelly
Bypass for 1L/2L
The bypass a Shelly 1L or 2L Gen3 needs to run without a neutral. It wires across the lamp so the switch stays powered on LED loads down to 5 W.
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1
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Everything you need to know
The sections below cover what this bypass does, where it installs, the full specifications, and how warranty and returns work. If something's still unanswered, the questions at the bottom cover the common ones.
Product features
What a bypass is for
Plenty of Australian light switches have no neutral in the switch box. A Shelly that runs without one has to draw a small current through the light itself to stay powered, and a modern LED lamp doesn't pass enough for that to work. You get a lamp that glows faintly when it should be dark, or a Shelly that can't hold itself on at all. The bypass wires across the lamp and carries that current instead, so the Shelly stays powered and the light behaves.
Fixes the faint glow on no-neutral installs
Wires in parallel with the lamp
Only needed where there's no neutral at the switch
Goes in the light fitting, not the switch
The bypass is a small sealed block, 39 by 23 by 13 mm, on two 65 mm flying leads. One lead goes to O, the switched output coming from the Shelly, and the other to N, neutral. That pairing is why it belongs at the light rather than the switch: the neutral is there at the fitting even when the switch box hasn't got one. Plan for your electrician needing access at the light.
Two leads: O from the Shelly, and neutral
39 × 23 × 13 mm on 65 mm leads
Mounts inside the light fitting
How Shelly works
A Shelly is a small module that makes wiring you already have controllable. It joins your Wi-Fi directly, holds its schedules and scenes on the device itself, and keeps running them if your internet drops. Nothing you set up depends on Shelly's servers being reachable.
The device
The brain is the device
Shelly does the thinking locally, not in a data centre. Schedules, scenes and logic are stored on the unit and run there, so the lights still come on at dusk when the internet is out.
The network
No hub, no bridge
There is nothing to buy before the first one works. Where a Philips Hue setup is built around a Bridge that every light talks through, a Shelly joins your router directly and answers your phone from there.
The control
The app is optional
Every Shelly serves its own web interface, so you can set it up and run it from a browser on your own network, with no account. The Shelly Smart Control app and Shelly Cloud are free and add remote access and voice control, but nothing needs them.
The generations
What Gen1 to Gen4 means
Shelly has run through four hardware generations, and the same product name can exist in more than one of them. Later generations are faster and carry more radios than the ones before, which is why the generation is part of the name. The specifications on each page tell you which one you are looking at.
Getting started
1
It goes behind what you already have Start here
Shelly retrofits. The module fits behind the switch, socket or appliance that is already there, so your switch plates and fittings stay as they are and the original switch keeps working for anyone who just wants to flick it. Anything wired into a mains circuit is a job for a licensed electrician.
2
Open by design Then run it your way
Shelly publishes its local API and does not put it behind a developer account. Devices answer HTTP and MQTT on your own network and can run small scripts on themselves. That is why Shelly is the default choice for people building on Home Assistant, which ships an official Shelly integration.
Start with one and add more whenever you like. There is no hub to outgrow, and each Shelly works on its own whether you ever add another or not.
Specifications
No specifications match.
Power
- Power
- Hardwired
- Supply voltage
- 240 V
- Standby power
- 4 W
- Accessory type
- Bypass
- Fits
- Shelly 1L Gen3, Shelly 2L Gen3
- Connections
- Flying leads
- Housing material
- Plastic
- Operating temperature
- -20–70 °C
- Operating humidity
- 30–70 % RH
- Max altitude
- 2000 metres
- Size (HxWxD)
- 39x23x13 mm / 1.54x0.91x0.51 inch (without wires)
- Weight
- 8 g / 0.28 oz
- Conductor cross section
- 0.2 mm^2^ / 24 AWG stranded
- Conductor stripped length
- 0.5 mm / 0.02 in
- Lenght of cables
- 65±5 mm / 2.56±0.2 in
- Mounting
- Inside Light Fixture
- Shell color
- Cyan
- Cable color
- Black
- Ambient working temperature
- -20*°* C to 70*°* C / -5*°* F to 158*°* F
- Power supply
- 240 V~, 50 Hz
Common questions
Quick answers before you buy. We test this gear ourselves. Can't find yours? Ask our Melbourne team
Yes. Shelly ships a bypass in the box with the 1L Gen3 and the 2L Gen3, so buy this one as a spare or a replacement. A 2L needs only one, on its first channel.
On LED lights, yes. The 1L and 2L Gen3 need a bypass to run without a neutral. Shelly notes it isn't needed for incandescent lamps.
It has two flying leads. One goes to O, the switched output coming from the 1L or 2L, and the other to N, neutral. On a 2L Gen3 that's the first channel, O1. That puts it in parallel with the lamp, which is why it installs at the light fitting rather than in the switch box.
No. The Shelly Dimmer takes its own part, the Bypass for Dimmer. The two aren't interchangeable.
Yes. It wires into the mains side of a light fitting, and in Australia that work must be done by a licensed electrician.
Shelly · Bypass for 1L/2L